Osaka/Kyoto/Nara Dec 2014 Itinerary: Part 4: Day 3

Day 3: (Kyoto Temple Hopping Day!- and a really long blogpost)

AM: (Higashiyama District) Kiyomizudera Temple -> Sannen-zaka & Ninen-zaka -> Maruyama Park -> Chion-In Temple
PM: Nishiki Market
PM- late Evening:  Fushimi-Inari
(Based on 1 day Kyoto Itinerary as suggested by insidekyoto.com, I tried to follow it as closely as possible)

Temple visiting is not a cheap affair- it costs 500-600 yen to enter the temple grounds- but the sights you get to enjoy are usually worth it.

AM: Made my way to Kiyomizudera Temple early in the morning (8.30am) to avoid the crowds. I took a bus and alighted at the nearest bus stop. Each bus trip costs 230 yen but if you're taking more bus trips do consider getting a bus day pass for unlimited bus rides for only 500 yen.

 

The pagoda at the temple entrance.

  

The main hall of Kiyomizudera Temple. It's well known for its wooden structure built on a hill and its wooden verandah/stage that juts out over the hillside. The explosion of autumn leaves also makes this a really scenic place! It was raining really heavily when I was there, but the heavy rain did not "dampen" the beauty of the place!

Each temple sells charms for a variety of occasions/purposes- I picked up some really unique and pretty charms and also the "safe driving" one haha. Do note they do not come cheap- range between 400-600yen depending on size and the charm's power? I presume.

Walk down from the main hall- to Otowa Waterfall at the base of the temple- drinking from the stream is said to bless you with health and longevity.

I missed out Jishu-jinja, the shrine above the main hall where visitors can be blessed with successful love life if they perform undergo a certain obstacle. But I managed to check out Tainai-meguri (aka  Zuigudo Hall)- which is actually located outside, just left of the pagoda entrance of Kiyomizudera. Entering the basement is symbolically entering the womb of female bodhisattva. For an entrance fee, you are plunged into a pitch dark room, where guided by a string of beads, you will find a sacred rock upon which you touch and make a wish. I initially felt really frightened by the darkness and claustrophobia but regained my calm as I slowly walked through the passage, hand on the guiding beads, took a deep breath and left all negative thoughts behind. It was a truly memorable zen experience.

After touring Kiyomizudera, exit down Kiyomizu-michi- look out for a four way intersection with stone-paved steps which lead into the charming streets of Sannen-zaka. There are several teahouses but I arrived way too early, they were not opened for business yet. Decided to linger around the area to admire traditional wooden houses and visit traditional shops selling handicrafts and food that opened early. Bought a really nice matcha ice cream along the streets!

Stone-paved steps leading to Sannen-zaka

Rich matcha ice cream- so so so satisfying!

Shophouses

Sampled some rice crackers on the way.

As you head further north, look out for the signs for Ninen-zaka, another beautiful street that leads to Kodaiji Temple. Do consider stopping by for Mitarashi Dango and Omen Udon Restaurant (Kodaiji Branch). Visited these places the night before (You can read it in my previous post) Walk up the stairs and you will reach the entrance of Kodaiji. You may consider visiting Kodaiji, but I visited the temple last night for its night illumination (See my my previous post).

Wandered around the preserved historic streets outside Kodaiji to spot small buddhist statues and eventually decided to take a break in Tsujiri teahouse outside Kodaiji, near the museum, where I helped myself to more hot green tea and their amazing matcha parfait.

Several buddhist statues along the preserved historic streets

Tsujiri Matcha Parfait Set (Special Kodaiji Branch set)- comes with azuki, matcha jelly, mochi, matcha soft serve, matcha wafer and served with hot green tea! about 1000yen

Refreshed from my dose of matcha, I proceeded to walk towards Maruyama Park to enjoy the gardens and calm atmosphere.

From the park, head further North (look out for helpful signs) and you will find your way at Chion-in. I did not stay here long as parts of the temple were under refurbishment, but still a great place to admire the autumn colours. Shoren-In is also a short walk away, but I decided not to stop there as I was feeling worn out by temple visiting. Head further north, and you will find yourself at the main road Sanjo-dori and a short walk away from Higashiyama station.

Took a train over to Shijo station to head to Nishiki Market for lunch. On the way towards Nishiki Market, I stopped over at Ippudo for late ramen set lunch.

Ramen broth tastes much richer and better in Japan than in Singapore- or maybe I was really hungry and had my rosy-tourist-glasses on. There were also many different condiment powders provided to go with the ramen. The gyoza was so crispy on the outside yet succulent and juicy inside. Energised, I walked into Nishiki Market, only to regret filling my stomach. There is so much food in there- rows of shops selling an plethora of food- preserved food, fresh seafood and snacks, but I can't stomach any more then.

Took a train over to Fushimi-Inari Taishi- well known for their iconic bright orange torii gates. Wanted to get there before it gets dark- if not the photos may not turn out as pretty! Foxes are regarded as messengers of Inari, the Shinto god worshipped at this temple. So a lot of references to foxes can be spotted in this area- even the food such as Kitsune udon (apparently favourite food of foxes).

The torii gates are erected on trails snaking up a mountain.  So it is an uphill climb to the top of the mountain. Really walk as far as your legs can take you, on the seemingly never ending trail of orange pillars.

I did not attempt to scale up to the summit of the mountain, though I spotted several ambitious athletes running up the steps towards the summit- I climbed up to Yotsutsuji Intersection, apparently just halfway up the mountain, but high enough to get a splendid view of Kyoto city. Managed to catch the sunset while I was up there- a breathtaking sight.

Descended the mountain- it was rapidly turning dark- headed for the nearby Vermillion Espresso Bar & Info to get a well deserved rest for my aching knees and feet. It's a small joint- but it's warm and cosy- and serves great coffee from an espresso machine that would satisfy coffee snobs. Had a really fragrant and invigorating cuppa of flat white.

I initially wanted to explore Gion for the rest of the evening, but I was really exhausted from the hectic day of walking and temple visiting. Took a train back to Downtown Kyoto and concussed inside the comfy interiors of Hoshino Coffee and had omu rice dinner (830 yen).

Despite my protesting limbs, I walked over to the Takashimaya department store across the street and explored the cavernous food hall. Bought breakfast for the next day and a really juicy piece of persimmon!