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Wednesday, 24 December 2014

Osaka/Kyoto/Nara Dec 2014 Itinerary: Part 5: Day 4

Day 4: Exploring North Western Kyoto
AM: Arashiyama (Tenryu-ji -> Bamboo Forest -> Okochi-Sanso Villa)
PM: Kinkakuji Temple
Evening: Wander around Shijio-dori, Gion
(Used Day 2 of Kyoto Itinerary as suggested by insidekyoto.com as a guide)

AM: Purchased a Kyoto City 1 Day Bus Pass (500yen) in anticipation of the traveling to be done today. Took a bus to Arashiyama and close to my first stop- Tenryu-ji Temple.
It is a famous Zen temple, but perhaps the main attraction is the main 14th century Zen garden with its central pond surrounded by trees and mountains that has survived in its original form.

Walk up to the north gate of the temple and you will reach Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. There is a really enchanting atmosphere about this place- something about how the bamboo stalks engulfs the walking path and grow seemingly upwards to the sky.
At the end of the bamboo forest, you will see the entrance to Okochi Sanso Villa- the home of a famous actor in samurai films. You may decide to enter and visit the well kept gardens and also admire views of the hills and the city. Admission is 1000 yen which includes a matcha tea and snack at the teahouse.
After which, I set out to locate Shoraian Tofu Restaurant. Following instructions from a local, I set downhill and found myself strolling along Hozu River.
The restaurant is only accessible by foot, since it is embedded in the forest, perched on the edge that overlooks the river. Unfortunately, the restaurant is fully booked and I was flatly turned away without a reservation. Do make a reservation here in advance if you wish to visit!

I retraced my steps and walked towards the road leading to Keifuku Arashiyama Line. On the way, I passed by Yudofu Sagano, another restaurant specialising in tofu and decided to stop there for lunch. This restaurant may be easily overlooked- it looks like a private estate on its own without any english signs. But do look out for for the house whose front lawn is filled with buddhist statues and the exterior of the house is very peculiarly decorated with cartwheels.

Yudofu Sagano- look out for the house with cartwheels
Interior of Yudofu Sagano- well decorated place
English lunch set menu- 3800 yen per person
If you thought tofu was a boring and bland dish- a meal here will change your perceptions. I didn't know tofu can be served in so many different ways. The meal started with simmered chunks of hot tofu in a pot that were surprisingly soft and supple- but perhaps the most memorable tofu dishes I had was the sesame tofu which was infused with rich and aromatic sesame flavour and the cold tofu dessert that was served with citrusy yuzu sauce. Not all dishes were tofu based, there were other side dishes like the "Devil's Tongue Jelly" which was konjac jelly served sashimi style and tempura.
Tofu Dessert
After the satisfying meal, I roamed around the streets near Keifuku Arashiyama station for some souvenir and snack shopping. Proceed to make my way to Kinkakuji Temple. You could take a train from the Keifuku line to reach there, but since I bought the bus pass I decide to make full use of it- I transferred 2 buses to reach the temple.

Kinkakuji is known for its glittering gold covered Zen temple overlooking the beautiful pond. Interestingly, each floor is built in a different architecture style.

Evening: Took a bus downtown to Gion, to check out the teahouses, shops and spot geishas.

Realised I was running low on cash (I spent quite a bit on temple visiting and buying charms!) Dinner was just a simple udon meal from a standing bar joint at Shijio-Dori, before heading to Kyoto station to catch a train back to Osaka.

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